Sand driving should be thought of as ‘surfing’ the dunes, not ploughing through them. Look at the shape and form of the dune. It is usually better to travel with the direction of the dunes (the direction of the wind). But be careful, because while you may find it easy going with the flow on the way up, it gets a bit tricky if you find yourself going back against it when you turn around.

Existing tracks normally define the best route to take. If there are no tracks, plan a route that seems the easiest and limits damage to flora and fauna. You should only be using the accelerator, and barely touching the brakes (or clutch if you have a manual). The general aim is to gain enough momentum going down to allow you to coast over the top of the next dune smoothly.

The sand’s consistency changes during the day and also seasonally. When it is very hot, dry conditions render the surface soft and loose. Blowing sand collects in hidden hollows and can catch out an unwary driver. Driving at around midday, especially in the summer, is particularly tricky as there are few shadows and little contrast to show the bumps and hollows before it’s too late.

If you are unsure of the best way to proceed, then stop in a safe spot (as defined below) and get out to have a look. The skill is in keeping your momentum going at crucial points and learning to ‘read’ the sand.

GETTING STARTED

If you’re new to dune bashing, it helps to get in with a group you can learn from. There will usually be at least a few members wanting to go out at the same time. Find like-minded people on social sites such as Facebook and Meetup.com, by taking part in related activities like hiking or off-road biking, ask in general expat forums, or search for fans of iconic 4WD brands, who will often welcome other 4WDs on their outings. These are also an excellent resource for experienced buddies. Most clubs are extremely welcoming to newbies and organise beginners’ drives where more experienced drivers are happy to show first-timers the ropes.

Although wet days may be rare in Saudi Arabia, it does rain here and there – especially in the early months of the year. A tip for beginners is to head out to some smaller dunes just after a downpour. Wet, hard sand is much easier to drive on and it can help novice dune-bashers get to grips with easier driving in the desert before tackling tougher conditions.

Tyres

Reduction of tyre pressure to between a half and two-thirds of road pressure – down to normally between 15 and 22 psi – is generally recommended. This increases the surface area of the tyre that is in contact with the sand and spreads the weight of the vehicle, providing added traction in soft conditions. In very soft sand, a minimum of 12 psi can be attempted, but with caution.

Let the air out of each tyre for 40 to 60 seconds. Check the pressure and take it down more if needed, but remember it’s better to let out too little air than too much (and have to reinflate it).

Instead of fiddling about with a tyre pressure gauge, an easier approach is to use a set of tyre deflators. These are a set of four valves, which can be set to your preferred pressure to deflate all four tyres at once, to the level you want.

Don’t forget to reinflate your tyres as soon as possible after leaving the desert. Finding the nearest fuel station is usually the easiest solution, but there can be quite a queue for the air pump on busy days, so you may want to invest in an air compressor.

Gears

The key to driving on sand is maintaining controlled momentum by using higher than normal revs. Always use 4WD and stick to the lower gears, but not low range yet. Selecting the correct gear and engine revs will come with experience, but try not to over or under accelerate when tackling soft sand. The more you practise, the more you’ll be able to anticipate where your vehicle is going to struggle. If you drive a manual transmission vehicle, change down a gear before you hit the tricky patches. It is all too easy to grind to a halt in sand, so practise flipping the clutch down and changing gear with lightning speed.

If you have diff-lock or low range, engage them to get through the tricky bits. If you drive a manual, you don’t need to use first gear when in low range – you can pull away in second or third.

If you have an automatic, you can learn with a little practice to get the engine to stay in a particular gear, or to change up and down by using the accelerator. You will more likely need to use the brake lightly to slow down in an automatic, but you can also engage some engine braking by flipping it into the ‘low’ gear option, or by using the gear selector. Just remember, when you do accelerate again you should do it gently to keep the car moving smoothly. Don’t stay in ‘drive’ gear when descending dunes as this may result in freewheeling down steep slopes.

Stopping Safely

Always stop at an angle that allows you to move on, preferably forward. If the sand is hard, you can stop on level ground. If not, stop on a downward slope.

• Small dunes – stop just over the top to evaluate your route. The car following you should stop on the top of the dune behind you
• Large dunes – stop towards the bottom of the dune on the downward slope, with enough space to pick up momentum before tackling the next dune. The cars following you can either stop behind or next to you, depending on space. If you stop on the ridge of a large dune, you risk getting stuck with no wheels touching the sand. Always try to stop just after you clear the ridge and are on the downward slope
• Never brake abruptly – this will force the tyres deeper into the sand. Before stopping, release the brake a little and roll gently to a halt
• Keep your eyes peeled for little dry bushes and never park over one – your engine will be hot after dune driving and there is a risk of starting a fire under your car

Do

Going Up A Dune

• Select the route of least resistance – get out of the car and have a look if necessary
• Give yourself a good run up and the momentum will carry you over the top – but remember, not too much, not too little
• Stick to lower gears and keep your revs high
• If you start losing traction, move your steering wheel a little, or ‘tack’ slightly, from side to side to help the wheels find extra traction as you tackle a slope
• Allow your ‘buddy’ vehicle to safely negotiate the slope before trying it yourself
• Make sure that no one is barrelling up the opposite side of the same dune

Going Down A Dune

• Stay in a low gear (i.e. 1 or 2 in 4WD High, but not 4WD Low)
• Point the car straight down the dune, not at an angle
• If the run out is smooth, accelerate slightly as you exit the bottom of the dune to gain momentum for the next climb

Don’t

Going Up A Dune

• Drive diagonally across the slope, especially in very soft sand. This situation sometimes arises as a result of doing a U-turn. If this happens, make sure you keep your momentum going to stop the car from rolling – if you are going too slowly, gravity will win and pull the car over, whichever way is down. Make sure you have just enough forward motion to fight it
• Tailgate another vehicle while going up

Going Down A Dune

• Brake sharply – this may cause the car to slur, roll or even flip over
• Brake if you start to drift sideways, just accelerate slightly to keep going forward
• Deviate from your straight line, however scary the descent
• Freewheel

Getting Unstuck

If you get stuck, and you will, don’t slam your foot hard on the accelerator. It will probably just sink you deeper into the sand.

• Assess your predicament and work out how best to free your vehicle by using its own weight and gravity to your advantage
• Remove any sand or obstacles that have built up around the front, back or sides of the wheels
• Unload excess weight – that means your passengers and even baggage if you’re well and truly stuck
• Check your tyre pressure and, if necessary, reduce it. This may give you the extra traction you need
• Switch off the air conditioning to direct all the power to the wheels
• Change into low range if the situation requires it (and use second gear) or engage diff-lock
• Wiggle the steering wheel from side to side as you begin to move – this can give a crucial bit of extra traction
• In a manual transmission vehicle, inch forward and backward at biting point, slowly clearing an area to give you a better chance of picking up momentum. Release the clutch slowly, ensuring minimum wheel spin
• Never let your wheels spin too much – you will only sink further and once you are buried up to your axles in sand, it is pretty much only a rescue company that can get you out

If you have done everything suggested and are still stuck, evaluate your predicament carefully. Consider the following suggestions:

Pushing

If you are simply bogged down, try to clear the sand from the tyres that are stuck. Your passengers can then assist with a push. It is surprising how much help even a couple of people pushing can be. Put something underneath the wheels to give you the traction you need. Mats, dead twigs or logs will help, although sand trays are ideal.

Jacking

Jack the car up and place something under the wheels that will give better traction, such as your picnic blanket, firewood or sand trays. Release the jack and repeat for each wheel until the car is raised beyond the obstruction. If you’re using a regular jack, you’ll need a block of wood to prevent it sinking into the sand. It’s easier to use a high-lift jack or an airbag jack, which is like a large inflatable cushion.

Rocking

In some situations, it may be possible to repeatedly rock the car vigorously from side to side, until the wheels lift up. This allows sand to gradually fill the space beneath the tyres. The idea is to get the car to rise up out of the sand, until it is possible – with some gentle use of low gears – to drive it out.

Towing

If you are travelling with two cars, the least sweaty solution is to tow out. The second vehicle should be in a solid position to tow, otherwise you’ll end up with two stuck vehicles. ‘Solid’ is defined as having good traction – on sand, this usually means on a downhill slope – and a smooth run out in front of the towing car. It is preferable to have a straight line between both cars.

You can join two ropes together to allow you to use a more solid towing spot, but it’s better to use shackles. A smaller 4WD is not going to be much help pulling out a heavier vehicle if it is stuck fast. A winch, if fitted, is a bonus (a high-lift jack can also serve as a winch). Ensure that both ends of the winch cable are well-anchored and make sure everyone stands clear of a cable or tow rope when under strain.

General Rules of Towing

• Attach the rope according to the manufacturer’s instructions. It is not recommended to use the bumper
• Avoid tying ropes together or onto your car. Use shackles as they won’t tighten and are much easier to undo. If you don’t have a shackle, loop one rope through another, but put a stick or a cloth through the slip knot so they are strong but can be undone
• Take the slack up slowly, unless executing a ‘jerk-tow’ manoeuvre. Jerking should be the very last resort, as something can easily fly off with the strain, risking injury to bystanders and damage to vehicles
• Coordinate efforts between cars. Uncoordinated attempts can worsen the situation. Agree on a code between helpers and drivers for ‘start’ and ‘stop’, and have both cars move at the same time
• Get all bystanders well out of the way in case the tow rope snaps, a shackle breaks or part of the car flies off